Neck Down Teddy Bear Sweater

Cardigan
This pattern is written for 3 gauges—4.5 sts/inch, 5 sts/inch, and 5.5 sts/inch. Gauge is important in determining the size of the finished sweater. Make sure you do a gauge swatch with your selected yarn to determine which set of directions you need to follow. Button holes and buttons are not included in the design because of a concern that buttons may be a choking hazard to small children.

Gauges
4.5 sts/inch (5 sts/inch, 5.5 sts/inch)

Materials:

4.5 sts/inch	5 sts/inch	5.5 sts/inch
Aran/worsted weight yarn, machine washable— approx. 75 yds. Size 8 needles and double-pointed size 8 needles or size needed to obtain gauge Size 6 needles and double-pointed size 6 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge	Worsted weight yarn, machine washable— approx. 75 yds. Size 7 needles and double-pointed size 7 needles or size needed to obtain gauge Size 5 needles and double-pointed size 5 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge	DK weight yarn, machine washable—approx. 85 yds. Size 5 needles and double-pointed size 5 needles or size needed to obtain gauge Size 3 needles and double-pointed size 3 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge

For all gauges: 8 stitch markers. 3 stitch holders or a smooth cotton yarn.

Abbreviations:
DP      = double-pointed
inc      = increase
K        = knit
M1      = insert left-hand needle from front to back into horizontal thread between last stitch worked and next stitch on needle. Knit this stitch through the back loop.
P         = purl
PM      = place marker
SM      = slip marker
st(s)    = stitch(es)

Directions:
Directions given are for 4.5 sts/inch, with (5 sts/inch, 5.5 sts/inch) in parentheses.
With smaller size needles cast on 54 (60, 66) sts. Knit 3 rows.
Next row (wrong side): K8 (9, 10) sts for right front, place marker (PM), K1 (seam st), PM, K9 (10, 11) sts for first sleeve, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K16 (18, 20) sts for back, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K9 (10, 11) sts for second sleeve, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K8 (9, 10) sts for left front.
Change to larger size needles.
Row 1 right side (increase row): Knit to marker, M1, SM, K1, SM, M1, repeat from 3 more times, knit to end of row. 8 sts increased.
Row 2: K3, purl, slipping markers as you get to them, until 3 sts remain, K3.
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 — 6 (7, 8) more times. You should have 15 (17, 19) sts for right front, 23 (26, 29) sts for sleeve, 30 (34, 38) sts for back, 23 (26, 29) sts for sleeve, 15 (17, 19) sts for left front, plus the 4 seam sts. 110 (124, 138) sts total.
Next row (right side): K16 (18, 20) sts, put on a holder or a piece of cotton yarn for left front. Do not cut yarn. Slip next 23 (26, 29) sts to larger double-pointed needle for first sleeve. Removing markers as you get to them, slip remaining sts onto holders or separate pieces of cotton yarn as follows: 32 (36, 40) sts for back, 23 (26, 29) sts for second sleeve, 16 (18, 20) sts for right front.
Directions are provided for knitting the sleeves either in the round (rnd) or back and forth. Pick the method that you prefer.

First sleeve:
Working on 23 (26, 29) sts left on larger size DP needles with knit side facing. Then,
If knitting in the rnd: Cast on 3 sts at beginning of row, K across all sts on needle, cast on 3 sts at end of row. 29 (32, 35) sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 larger size DP needles, PM, and join, making sure sts are not twisted. K3 (4, 4) rnds.
Change to smaller size DP needles. For 4.5 sts/inch: P1 rnd, K1 rnd. Bind off purlwise. For 5 sts/inch: P1 rnd, K1 rnd, P1 rnd. Bind off knitwise. For 5.5 sts/inch: P1 rnd, K1 rnd, P1 rnd, K1 rnd. Bind off purlwise. Cut yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail.
If knitting back and forth:
Note: you can work back and forth either using 2 DP needles or straight needles.
Cast on 4 sts at beginning of row, K across all sts on needle, cast on 4 sts at end of row. 31 (34, 37) sts. Note: This provides for 2 edge stitches for seaming. Work 2 (4, 4) rows in stockinette stitch beginning with a purl row.
Change to smaller size needles. Knit 3 (3, 4) rows. Bind off knitwise. Cut yarn leaving a 12” long tail and sew sleeve seam.

Second sleeve:
Slip 23 (26, 29) sts of second sleeve from holder onto larger size DP needles. With right side facing, join yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail and work as for first sleeve.
Body: Note: If you knitted the sleeves back and forth, make sure the sleeve seams are sewn before starting the body.
Starting at left front garter stitch edge with right side facing, slip 16 (18, 20) sts of left front from holder onto larger size needle. Join yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail, pick up and knit 6 sts over cast on sts at underarm of first sleeve. With other larger size needle, starting at right front garter stitch edge with wrong side facing, slip 16 (18, 20) sts of right front and 32 (36, 40) sts of back from holders. Turn work to right side. K32 (36, 40) sts of back, pick up and knit 6 sts over cast on sts at underarm of second sleeve. K16 (18, 20) sts of right front. 76 (84, 92) sts.
Row 1 wrong side: K3, purl across row until 3 sts remain, K3.
Row 2: Knit.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 — 2 (3, 3) more times.
Change to smaller size needles. K3 (4, 5) rows. Bind off knitwise. Cut yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail.
Finishing: Work in ends neatly, tightening up any holes that you may have at underarms.