Southern Tier

Needles and Skeins

Neck Down Teddy Bear Sweater

Pullover
This pattern is written for 3 gauges—4.5 sts/inch, 5 sts/inch, and 5.5 sts/inch.  Gauge is important in determining the size of the finished sweater.  Make sure you do a gauge swatch with your selected yarn to determine which set of directions you need to follow.

Gauges
4.5 sts/inch (5 sts/inch, 5.5 sts/inch)

Materials
4.5 sts/inch 5 sts/inch 5.5 sts/inch

Aran/worsted weight yarn, machine washable— approx. 75 yds.
Size 8 needles and double-pointed size 8 needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 6 needles and double-pointed size 6 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge

Worsted weight yarn, machine washable— approx. 75 yds.
Size 7 needles and double-pointed size 7 needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 5 needles and double-pointed size 5 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge

DK weight yarn, machine washable—approx. 85 yds.
Size 5 needles and double-pointed size 5 needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 3 needles and double-pointed size 3 needles or needles 2 sizes smaller than those needed to obtain gauge

For all gauges:  8 stitch markers—one a different color than the rest to be used as your beginning of round marker. 3 stitch holders or a smooth cotton yarn.

Abbreviations:
DP      =  double-pointed
inc      =  increase
K        =  knit
M1      =  insert left-hand needle from front to back into horizontal thread between last stitch worked and next stitch on needle.  Knit this stitch through the back loop.
P         =  purl
PM      =  place marker
SM      =  slip marker
st(s)    =  stitch(es)

Directions:
Directions given are for 4.5 sts/inch, with (5 sts/inch, 5.5 sts/inch) in parentheses.
With smaller size 16” circular needle loosely cast on 54 (60, 66) sts.  Place the beginning of round marker.  Join, making sure stitches are not twisted.  Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 3 (4, 5) rounds (rnds), slipping marker (SM) as you get to it.  Note:  first round will be tight.  Be patient, it gets easier to work on the second round! 
Change to larger size 16” circular needle. 
Next rnd:  Slip beginning of round marker to right needle, K1 (seam st), place marker (PM), K9 (10, 11) sts for first sleeve, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K16 (18, 20) sts for front, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K9 (10, 11) sts for second sleeve, PM, K1 (seam st), PM, K16 (18, 20) sts for back. 
Rnd 1 (increase rnd):  *M1, SM, K1, SM, M1, knit to next marker, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at beginning of rnd marker.  8 sts increased.
Rnd 2:  Knit, slipping markers as you get to them.
Repeat Rnds 1 & 2 — 6 (7, 8) more times.  You should have 23 (26, 29) sts for sleeve, 30 (34, 38) sts for front, 23 (26, 29) sts for sleeve, 30 (34, 38) sts for back plus the 4 seam sts.  110 (124, 138) sts total.
Remove beginning of rnd marker, K1, remove marker.  Do not cut yarn.  Slip next 23 (26, 29) sts to larger double-pointed needle for first sleeve.  Removing markers as you get to them, slip remaining sts onto holders or separate pieces of cotton yarn as follows:  32 (36, 40) sts for front, 23 (26, 29) sts for second sleeve, 32 (36, 40) sts for back.
Directions are provided for knitting the sleeves either in the rnd or back and forth.  Pick the method that you prefer.

First sleeve:
Working on 23 (26, 29) sts left on larger size DP needles with knit side facing. 
Then, If knitting in the rnd:
Cast on 3 sts at beginning of row, knit across all sts on needle, cast on 3 sts at end of row.  29 (32, 35) sts.  Divide sts evenly onto 3 larger size DP needles, PM, and join, making sure sts are not twisted.
K3 (4, 4) rnds, increasing 1 (0, 1) st on last rnd. 30 (32, 36) sts.
Change to smaller size DP needles.  Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 2 (3, 4) rnds.  Bind off in ribbing.  Cut yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail.
If knitting back and forth:
Note:  you can work back and forth either using 2 DP needles, circular needle, or straight needles.
Cast on 4 sts at beginning of row, K across all sts on needle, cast on 4 sts at end of row.  31 (34, 37) sts.  Note:  This provides for 2 edge stitches for seaming.
Work 3 (4, 4) rows in stockinette stitch beginning with a purl row, decreasing 0 (1, 0) st on last row.
Change to smaller size needles.  Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 2 (3, 4) rows.  Bind off in ribbing.  Cut yarn leaving a 12” long tail and sew sleeve seam.

Second sleeve:
Slip 23 (26, 29) sts of second sleeve from holder onto larger size DP needles.  With right side facing, join yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail and work as for first sleeve.

Body:
Note:  If you knitted the sleeves back and forth, make sure the sleeve seams are sewn before starting the body. 
Slip remaining 64 (72, 80) sts on holders onto larger size circular needle.  With right side facing,  join yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail.  K32 (36, 40) sts of back, pick up and knit 6 sts over sts cast on for underarm, K32 (36, 40) sts of front, pick up and knit 6 sts over sts cast on for underarm, PM to mark beginning of rnd.  Join, making sure stitches are not twisted.  76 (84, 92) sts.
K7 (8, 8) rnds.
Change to smaller size circular needle.
Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 3 (4, 5) rnds.  Bind off in ribbing.  Cut yarn leaving a 6-8” long tail.
Finishing:
Work in ends neatly, tightening up any holes that you may have at underarms.

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